User Name Remember Me? Password Forgot Password? Join Us! Join Date: Feb Posts: Intake popping and rough. Everything seems airtight and I can't figure out what it is. I'm considering putting the stock intake back on til I figure it out.
Chevy 350 is backfiring/misfiring through the exhaust?
Any ideas on a fix guys? Join Date: Mar Posts: 6, Re: Intake popping and rough. It rattles and makes a popping noise. Almost as if it can't take in the air it wants to and forces it back out the filter.
Q: Rough idle and stalling with exhaust popping
It's super weird and someone else on here said he had the same problem. In the morning I might make a video of it to better explain. Hey man, is it like a clunk? Originally Posted by KMuck. Join Date: Jul Posts: 1, Originally Posted by Vblueranger. Yeah, exactly. I had em check mine a few years ago when I first got it installed and noticed the noise, and it is apparently lack of a 'silencer' for lack of a better word, which is present in a normal ford factory Intake to muffle that noise.
It's just excess air kicking out of the tube when the compressor kicks on and off. Join Date: Apr Posts: 7. Not sure if this is your problem but a buddy of mine had the same problem he figured it was from the guy before not havin the aftermarket intake secure but he ended up havin clods of dirt deep in the tube ended up havin to rebuild the motor might be worth checkin out.
Originally Posted by Jc Thread Tools. User Name. Remember Me? Forgot Password? Ranger Pictures. Social Groups. Mark Forums Read.Engine noises come in a variety of sounds and locations. Most engine noises have specific tones and rhythms associated with individual parts. Some noises will be heard during start-up in cold engines. Other heavier knocks will announce themselves under acceleration and heavy load. Sometimes clicking and clacking sounds will be constant and rise with engine rpm.
Intermittent noises can be the most difficult of all to solve since they come and go with no regularity. Knowing how the internal reciprocating engine works helps the vehicle owner know what parts produce which sounds. The vehicle owner should use a process of elimination to pinpoint the exact source of the noise.
Place the vehicle in park or neutral with the emergency brake set. Start the engine and open the hood. Try and determine where the general location of the noise comes from. Check the belts on all the pulleys. Make sure the belts rotate on each of their pulleys, with no slack. Check inside the cooling fan shroud to make sure the fan does not make contact with the shroud while rotating. Examine the radiator cap for a tight seal. Don a stethoscope and move it slowly over the top of the engine, listening for any internal knocking or clacking sound.
Place the stethoscope probe over the valve covers, if so equipped, or the top of the intake manifold. Listen for any clacking or clicking.
Q: Rough idle and stalling with exhaust popping
Such noises will indicate problems with the hydraulic lifters or rocker arm tappets. Use a floor jack to lift the vehicle, and place two jack stands under the front frame and two at the rear. Slide under the vehicle and place the stethoscope up against the oil pan or underside of the engine block.
Listen for dull metallic clunking sounds that have a regular rhythm. Such a noise will point to a bad connecting rod bearing, and possibly a worn piston pin.
Lower the vehicle from the stands.Dan Ferrell writes about do-it-yourself car maintenance and repair. He has certifications in automation and control technology.
Engine rough idle problems arise because car engines are demanding. Components in the fuel, ignition, emission and other systems should work correctly.
Troubleshooting Engine Rough Idle Problems
It only takes a minor problem like a fouled spark plug to cause your engine to vibrate. Idle problems may originate in a worn out component, a failed part, or a blown gasket. The number of potential sources of a rough idle can make your diagnostic a little difficult. Still, you have at your disposal several tools to help you troubleshoot and fix the problem sooner. Even more, on modern vehicles the car computer monitors many sensors and actuators and usually can detect small deviating operating parameters and store related trouble codes as necessary.
The code may indicate the component, circuit or system involved in the fault. So this gives you an additional advantage. In this guide, you'll find many of the components that, when going bad, will usually cause engine rough idle problems. The components are ordered from the most frequent to the least, either because they usually receive little attention or because they are bound to fail within a number of miles of operation.
To make the most out of this list, pay attention to the 'Other symptoms' at the bottom of each component description. And compare these symptoms and conditions to the ones you've noticed in your car.
This will help you zero in on your diagnostic faster. For example, when your engine idles rough, you may notice the problem only shows up before the engine warms up; then idle smooths out. This may indicate a bad ECT sensor as described in Other symptoms in that section.
So pay attention to all the symptoms and conditions when given in each component listed to make your diagnostic easier.
Before starting hunting for the source of a rough idle, you can do this simple method to confirm that you have a driveability problem. It'll work in most cases. Set your transmission to Park automatic or Neutral manualand apply the parking brake. Start the engine and let it idle. Now, listen to the sound coming out of the tail pipe. If you hear a clear popping sound, most likely you have a performance problem; if not, check the engine mounts.
A worn out, loose or damaged engine mount can cause the engine to vibrate. A faulty spark plug may cause several engine performance problems, including an engine rough idle. The same conditions under which the spark plug operates, along with poor engine maintenance, may foul the tip with ash, oil, or carbon deposits.
On top of this, miles of service cause the plug electrodes to wear out, widening the gap. This causes an increase in the voltage needed for the spark to jump between the electrodes; but this condition may burn the plug tip and other ignition components, resulting in a rough idle and possibly other engine performance problems.The first thing to do is to get rid of the oil type air filter. This oil bath type filter can cause the mass air flow to be contaminated with the oil from the filter you are using.
You should first try and change out the air filter with a factory paper type. Then clean out the mass air flow sensor using special mass air cleaner spray and let it dry completely and reinstall it. Road test vehicle to see if problem is corrected. If it is then scan the computer and clear the Check Engine Light. If codes to the mass airflow sensor return and vehicle runs bad still then replace the mass airflow sensor. Sometimes cleaning the oil that contaminated the sensor will fix the problem if the sensor was not shorted out or damaged by the oil from the air filter oil.
Q: Rough idle and stalling with exhaust popping asked by Matthew J. My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. Jay Safford Automotive Mechanic. Thank Jay. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified.
Please see our terms of service for more details. Related Questions. Just got tune up now water wont stay in reservoir and its hesistant The engine light is on and displaying a P code on my code reader. I have a Ford F single cab has a rod knock and dies while driving by Johnnie R.
Home Questions. Year I don't know.Eddie spent 35 years in the automotive business with Honda. If you own a car, it probably makes noises you can't identify, but would love to fix. Car noises are not just annoying: sometimes they are a warning sign, like the calm before a storm. Here are the four car noises customers most commonly complain about. Sometimes noises are hard to identify, because a noise travels throughout the vehicle and it is hard to pinpoint where it's coming from. But with a trained ear and some insight, we should be able to figure out what is causing the noise in your car and what you can do to fix it.
If your car is making a clicking noise when turning, it is likely you have an outer CV joint constant velocity joint that has failed because of a torn boot or old age, most likely a torn boot. Without going into too much detail about what a CV joint is, I will just give you a basic idea of its function and why it might have failed. A CV joint is a set of ball bearings at the inner and outer ends of an axle.rough idle and backfiring
Eventually it will split open and allow specks of dirt and debris to enter the joint. Once foreign matter mixes with the grease, the damage begins, and it is only a matter of time before the CV joint starts to make a clicking noise when turning.
This clicking noise while turning will start out faint, but gradually it will become noticeable and eventually very loud. The only way to fix this condition is to replace either the whole axle assembly or the outer CV joint. Water pump noises are very difficult to diagnose, because the water pump is generally buried deep in the motor, and the noise will resonate through the engine making it difficult to identify.
The water pump on your engine is a thick metal casting containing a pulley, pump fins a palm-sized propeller to push the water alongand a bearing set. When a water pump fails, the noise is usually caused by damage to the bearings.
The video below is a great example of what a noisy water pump sounds like. If you suspect your water pump is the culprit for the noise in your car, try to locate the water pump on the engine.
The only fix for a noisy water pump is to replace it. If it is nearly time for a routine timing belt replacement every 60, tomiles or so depending on the caryou might want to have that done at the same time as the water pump, because timing belt service is one of the rare occasions when a water pump is easy to get to.
In the video below, the mechanic uses a screwdriver like a stethoscope, pressing it against the hub of a wheel to listen to a wheel bearing noise. Engine belts can create a loud, high-pitched squeak or squeal that will drive you and your neighbors crazy.
Some engine belts only squeak after you go through a large puddle or if there is heavy moisture in the air, and others squeak constantly. If your engine belts squeak only when damp, you probably only need to have the belts adjusted. If your belts squeak constantly, they may be dry, cracked, or loose, and probably need to be replaced. Keep in mind that this spray will not fix anything permanently. It is, however, a great tool for diagnosing the noise and finding out which belt the noise is coming from.Forums New posts Search forums.
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I bet this is your problem. BigChiefSmokem Founding Member. Feb 20, 1, 0 36 39 Jacksonville, FL Visit site. Popping sound from the exhaust?? I'm having the same problem, what fixed yours? Apr 25, 0 0 36 Long Island, NY. Check the vaccum lines and that the spark plug boots are all the way on the plug. Grn92LX Fidanza Man! Founding Member. Jan 14, 6, 42 New York Visit site. Where is the popping sound comming from? If its through the intake its lean most likely due to a bad vacuum leak.
Do a code test before pissing away money on parts that won't help the issue at hand. Show hidden low quality content. You must log in or register to reply here.It doesn't seem like it is affecting anything cause it drives fine and revs really fast. We checked the timing and that wasn't it. Could the carb running rich cause it to make popping sounds when you rev it? Also will it cause me any problems in the future if I cannot find out what is wrong? The engine is a Chevy from a Chevy pickup.
Super lean mixtures will smell rich out the exhaust because super lean burns slow and late. Popping happens with lean not rich. Therefore, don't assume that rich exhaust means a rich mixture. It can, but not always. Have you used a dedicated break in oil to run in our new cam when you replaced it.?
They're soft, the crowns are wrong, the nickel content is wrong, etc. The other possibility is when you start to give it gas, the timing starts to retard.
It's happened a time or two on some really worn out parts or when you time a vacuum advance distributor with the vacuum advance connected during the timing session. It's also very hard on rod bearings, as it induces a big toss load on them. You have to put them under a load. Did you use an open or a 4 hole carb spacer.? Open spacers cater to high RPM output, not off idle response and mid range torque.
That's where 4 hole spacers are desired. What carb is on the engine.? Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws AFTER you first set the timing and set the pre load on the lifters.? Apparently people don't understand vacuum advance. Manifold vacuum is what you want. Ported advance is for emissions ONLY. Think about it I say screw what the "book" says, and advance or retard your timing to where the engine likes it. As to timing jumping teeth, this person has obviously never seen a GM timing chain setup.
Half the teeth are engaged at all times by the chain BUT, after refuting most of what you have been told, popping out of one bank is odd. Are your plug wires good? I find it best to clamp a plug to the brake booster, and run the plug wire to that plug, so that I can start the truck, walk out and look at the plug to see if it's sparking, without shocking the heck out of myself. If a plug isn't getting consistent, strongspark, that cylinder will dump raw fuel into the exhaust which combusts, producing the popping.
Of course, a leaking exhaust valve can do the same thing. At which point a compression and leakdown test can give you an idea.